Section 5: Lead & Inspire Communities to Help Heal Earth

At this point, we know enough to understand and appreciate why these three points are true:

1. The way we currently manage the sub/urban landscape is creating a wasteland and harming the well-being of Earth.
2. The landscape paradigms and practices outlined in this book do the opposite—they help heal Earth.
3. When we work to help heal Earth, we save time and money because we are working with natural systems instead of against them.

If we make these changes where we live, work, and play we are actively helping change landscape paradigms from those that create an ecological wasteland to those that help heal Earth and create wonder. We are leading by example. According to Donella Meadows in her book Thinking in Systems, shifting paradigms is one of the most powerful ways that we can generate change.

For those who want to help shift paradigms even more, let me introduce Project Pando, which aims to do exactly this. At Project Pando we work with volunteers to collect native seeds from wild trees and shrubs, raise them into saplings, and give them away for free. This idea can also be applied to native flowers and grasses. This has all sorts of wonderful outcomes, like expanding the supply and variety of native species while bringing people together through a shared sense of purpose and community. But there is a deeper, more potent magic at work: collecting seeds and raising trees changes how we view them, which shifts our thinking and behaviors.

What follows next is the culmination of what we have learned thus far. There will be many future versions. We will continue to iterate and innovate because this project is constantly evolving as we learn more.

An Overview of The Project Pando Model

During my career I have donated time and expertise to helping various non-profit tree-planting organizations here in Raleigh and the surrounding cities. I have learned firsthand of their many challenges. Their primary ones are:

1. Tree planting efforts are often limited by small budgets and traditional nursery trees are expensive.
2. Volunteer planting efforts are limited by the technical expertise required to plant traditional nursery trees, which we learned about in Chapter 10. The trees often die due to lack of proper planting.
3. The ones that survive often die from lack of water since it is challenging to organize volunteer tree watering efforts.

One day it occurred to me: why not grow trees for these planting organizations for free, thus bypassing their budget limitations? While we are at it, why not attempt to shift away from traditional nursery trees toward saplings to eliminate the majority of the technical planting requirements and watering needs? Saplings would also result in healthier mature trees. Better yet, we could do this work together as a community! With funding from Leaf & Limb and space from Triangle Land Conservancy, a group of amazing volunteers, colleagues, and I banded together to turn this idea into reality.

We work with our community to collect seeds from native trees that grow in this area. Then we plant all the seeds in leaf mold in what are known as air-pruning boxes (we will learn more about these later in this section). Using this approach, we can grow many trees in a very small area. A 4-ft × 2-ft box can easily yield 200 saplings, and far more for some species. Better yet, it produces saplings with well-formed root systems that are healthy, hardy, and ready for a future in the sub/urban landscape, where there is often more dirt than soil. After growing for one to two years, we extract the saplings from the air-pruning boxes and give them away to those who want them.

This model has many benefits. The most impressive thus far has been the collective power that comes from working as a community to collect native seeds. By teaching folks how to identify native trees and shrubs, and by providing them with the information and systems necessary to support their efforts, we have been able to tap into the collective power that comes from many people working together. Essentially this is the idea that “many hands make light work.” This has encouraging implications for other organizations and projects aimed at helping plant trees, grasslands, and perform other forms of ecological restoration.

Another benefit is that we can grow many different native species of trees and shrubs that are from this immediate area, or an adjacent area. We can think of these as being hyper-native. A given species adapts to its local growing conditions. For example, a white oak has a native range across much of the eastern United States. But a seed from a white oak in North Carolina and one from New York are not the same—they have local adaptations and genetic variations. The seed from New York is better suited to grow there, and the seed from North Carolina is better suited to grow in NC. Species continuously evolve to match their specific growing conditions. Any seeds collected from native trees that grow in a certain area, and that are then planted in the same area, will have the best chance of long-term survival.

It also infuses more genetic variation back into the sub/urban landscape. Many traditional nursery trees are clones of one another, which means they are genetically identical. Sometimes this is due to propagation techniques and other times it is due to the plant being trademarked. This leaves these trees vulnerable to a pest that could wipe out the entire population, which makes our sub/urban canopy less resilient and stable. Planting saplings grown with the Project Pando model does the opposite—it increases the resilience and stability of our canopy in the face of an uncertain future.

Most important of all, this work supports all the goals outlined in this book while strengthening the bonds within our community and between all life—trees, humans, and insects alike. We experience joy and learn new things. Slowly, our hearts, minds, and paradigms begin to shift.

Here is an overview of the steps necessary to use this model. Please note that I have attempted to focus on the easiest and most essential components of this model to make it as fun and enjoyable as possible to get started. There are many opportunities to add complexity, some of which I will link to via QR codes.

1. Learn to identify native plants.
2. Build air-pruning boxes and fill them.
3. Find space to grow saplings.
4. Collect native seeds.
5. Plant seeds.
6. Nurture the saplings—then give them away!

Step 1: Learn to Identify Native Plants

To begin, please revisit Chapter 10, where I outline some strategies for learning what species are native to a given area. The next step is learning to identify those species. The best place to learn this skill is from a tree ID book. They provide processes and resources that work well. I have included some of my favorite tree ID books in the Appendix.

The good news is that learning tree ID is a skill that builds on itself. The first 10 species are the hardest. The more we learn, the faster we learn because patterns and similarities emerge. Here are some tips and ideas for how to proceed with developing this new skill.

• Commit to learning one new species each day, week, or month. Regularity helps.
• Have fun! Integrate this learning process into afternoon walks with loved ones or pets. Or turn it into a scavenger hunt or a game of bingo.
• Follow the processes outlined in the plant ID books—they work.
• Visit local arboretums and botanical gardens. Many of the species are labeled, which makes learning all that much easier.
• Join some local groups of plant enthusiasts. Look online at Reddit, Meetup, and in various social media groups.
• Check with local parks and preserves. Many of these groups even host tree ID walks.
• We all regularly get stumped at times—even the experts. Avoid becoming frustrated and move on. The key is to have fun and keep learning.
• Use apps to help, such as iNaturalist.

For those already familiar with tree and shrub ID, consider hosting educational tree ID walks. We began hosting these as part of Project Pando and they quickly became popular. They are a great place to meet like-minded people who want to learn more about trees. We also collect seeds along the way when they are available.

Once we know what plants are native and how to identify them, we can decide what we want to grow. One approach is to simply start collecting the native seeds we encounter during our daily routines. For example, what do we find when walking around our neighborhood, outside at work, or at the local park?

Or we may want to grow trees for a specific purpose or goal (e.g., to fill a wetland area). If yes, we will need to do further research about the various species that meet our goals. There are many plant databases and resources that can help with this task, per earlier recommendations in Chapter 10.

Step 2: Build Air-Pruning Boxes and Fill Them

As mentioned earlier in this section, our preferred method for growing trees and shrubs is using air-pruning boxes. This is an open frame built with wood on the sides and a wire mesh on the bottom. It is able to hold a large quantity of leaf mold for growing seeds. The essential feature of an air-pruning box is the bottom: it’s a wire mesh. When roots grow through the mesh, they encounter air, and the root tips dry out, i.e., they are “pruned” by the air. This causes the plant to produce new branching roots, leading to a young sapling with extensive root development and excellent root structure. In addition, they are cheap, easy to build, grow lots of trees in a small space, and provide flexibility about where trees can be grown.

There are many ways to make air-pruning boxes. This means we have flexibility in terms of the size of box we build and the process we use, so long as the end result can hold a growing substrate and has a wire mesh at the bottom. Here’s how we build our air-pruning boxes at Project Pando. Per usual, here is a video first, followed by written instructions.

Here are the tools and supplies we need for one air-pruning box:

• 12 feet of 2” × 8” treated lumber (There is some concern about whether the treated lumber might affect the saplings, but we have never had any issues. We can choose other lumber, but it must be rot-resistant.)
• 12 feet of 2” × 6” treated lumber
• 4 feet of 2” × 2” treated lumber
• Eight 3” angle brackets
• Four 3” T brackets
• Approximately fifty 1-¼” deck screws
• 4 feet of 2-ft tall ½” × ½” hardware cloth
• Hammer
• Fence staples or industrial staple gun with matching staples
• Power drill with screwdriver bits (or screwdriver if a drill is not an option)
• Eight bricks or four cinder blocks
• Miter saw, circular saw, or hand saw for cutting lumber
• Offset snips for cutting wire
• OPTIONAL: #8 2-inch wood deck screws for additional support

Before we begin, here is an overview: our box frames are 4-ft long by 2-ft wide, using 2” × 8” treated lumber. In addition, we place a second frame (we will call this a riser) on top of the box frame. This riser can be removed, which makes it easier to extract the saplings when they are ready. It is made from 2” × 6” lumber and helps increase the rooting area and water retention within the box. The frames are connected using brackets and screws. We attach 2” × 2” crossbars at the base of the box to help hold the growing substrate.

Now it’s time to build the box. Here are details:

1. Let’s begin by cutting our pieces:
   • Two 4-foot sections of 2” × 8”
   • Two 4-foot sections of 2” × 6”
   • Two 21-inch sections of 2” × 8”
   • Two 21-inch sections of 2” × 6”
   • Two 21-inch sections of 2” × 2”
   • PRO TIP: Sometimes stores that sell lumber will cut it to specified lengths for free.
2. Attach the 2” × 8” boards to form a rectangle frame with the shorter lengths on the inside of the longer lengths so that the entire box is 2-ft by 4-ft. In other words, the 21” sections are attached inside of the 4-ft sections. Use 3” angle brackets with 1-¼” deck screws on the inside the frames.
3. Repeat this process for the 2” × 6” boards. We now have two frames.
4. It’s ok if the frames are a little wobbly. But if we prefer less wobble and want the added support, we can drill the #8 2-inch wood deck screws into the outside corners of the box. Drive them through the outside of the 4-foot section into the end of the 21” section. Use two screws per corner per frame.
5. We add two 21-inch 2” × 2” crossbars to the 2” × 8 main box frame to provide additional support for the hardware cloth. Space each approximately one-third of the distance across the box so they are evenly distributed. We use 3” T-brackets with 1-¼” deck screws to attach these crossbars to the inside of the bottom of the frame.
6. Once this is done, we should have a reasonably sturdy frame. It is ok to have some wiggle. But we do not want too much; the frame needs to be strong enough to hold 100+ pounds of leaf mold and trees.
7. The final step is to attach the screen to the bottom of the 2” × 8” frame (NOTE: the bottom is the side with the 2” × 2” crossbars). We use a product called hardware cloth. The hardware cloth we use is ½” × ½”. We can firmly attach it to the bottom of the box using fence staples placed along the outside of the frame and along the crossbars. We typically use at least 20 of these staples per 4-ft × 2-ft box. If in doubt, use more because the substrate is heavy. We don’t want our screens to fall off during the growing season.
8. If we are building a lot of boxes, we may want to consider using an industrial staple gun powered by compressed air to save time and effort.
9. We do not add center beams or hardware cloth to the 2” × 6” frame. This is the riser and does not need additional construction.
10. Now set the riser on top of the box—we are done!

Before we fill our box with leaf mold, place it on bricks, cinder blocks, or some alternative option. The bottom of the box should be at least 5” above ground, though more is fine. The blocks should be located at each corner of the box and must not cover up the hardware cloth on the bottom. Remember, the defining trait of the air-pruning box is the gap of air underneath that will air prune roots and generate extensive root development with excellent structure.

Next, we fill the box with leaf mold and gently compress it to minimize future settling. We prefer leaf mold because it mimics the leaf litter in a forest, which is where many seeds grow naturally. We also prefer leaf mold because we have access to a large supply of it from our local municipality. But there are other substrates we can use, such as compost and soil.

If we have a lot of squirrels, mice, deer or other animals that love to eat seeds and saplings, we need to make a cage to protect them. Here are instructions for how to make a protective cage.

For the protective cage we need the following items:

• Four 45.5”-length sections of ¾” PVC pipe
• Eight 21.5”-length sections of ¾” PVC pipe
• NOTE: When we add PVC pipe connectors to both sides of the PVC pipe, we add an extra 2.5 inches of pipe, which is why we are cutting these shorter than 4 feet and 2 feet.
• Eight ¾” × ¾” 90° side outlet elbow connectors
• Chicken wire that is 2 feet wide
• Offset snips
• Zip ties
• Something to cut PVC, e.g., hand saw, power saw, PVC cutters

We begin by cutting the PVC into appropriate lengths. Then we connect the sections with the elbow connectors to create the box shape. First, we make two square frames using the 21.5” sections. Then we connect them with the four 45.5” sections. We don’t use any glue with these connections. They are sturdy enough without it. Once we have our rectangular PVC box frame, we add the chicken wire as follows:

1. Roll out the chicken wire on the ground. Use bricks or something sturdy to keep it from rolling back on itself.
2. Lay the PVC box frame on its side on top of the chicken wire. The 2-foot height of the frame should match the 2-foot width of the chicken wire.
3. Connect one edge of the chicken wire to one of the 2-foot PVC sections with zip ties.
4. Roll the outside of the PVC box frame along the chicken wire and bend the wire around each edge of the frame. This lightly holds the chicken wire in place around the outer 2-foot edges of the frame.
5. Secure the chicken wire to the PVC box frame with zip ties. Make sure to use lots of zip ties because squirrels will climb through small gaps. The sides of the frame have now been covered. Cut off excess chicken wire using the offset snips.
6. Now we need to cover one remaining panel of the PVC box frame, which will be the top of the protective cage. Cut out a section of chicken wire for the top and secure it in place with zip ties.

There we have it! The protective cage is complete. Set it on top of the air-pruning box to keep the seeds safe from predation.

Step 3: Find Space to Grow Saplings

There is plenty of room to grow saplings all over the sub/urban landscape. This is part of the beauty of air-pruning boxes—they allow us to grow in small areas, such as a common area in an HOA, our home, on an outdoor patio at a local restaurant, or in a community garden. At Project Pando we have set up air-pruning boxes on many different sites. We have partnered with Triangle Land Conservancy to grow many boxes full of trees on land they hold in conservation. We grow trees behind Leaf & Limb’s office on a concrete pad and in the woods behind the pad. We grow trees in air-pruning boxes on volunteers’ driveways and patios. We also grow trees at local schools with the help of students. The possibilities are endless. The main considerations for any site are:

Water: We do not need to water our trees very often, if at all. But we may need to water them at some point, especially in the event of an extended heat wave or drought. Therefore, it is best to choose a site where we have access to water if necessary.

Enjoyment: People love following the progress of growing saplings! Set up chairs, benches, or stump rounds nearby to encourage folks to engage. Include an educational sign if it makes sense. The air-pruning boxes at Leaf & Limb have become a central point of interest, observation, and conversation for all of us. It’s so fun and interesting to follow along for a growing season. We even attracted a growing family of anoles who now call this space home!

Sun/Shade: While many tree saplings can be grown in full sun, they often benefit from some shade. Shade is especially good if we are not able to water our saplings very often because it helps reduce water loss during the growing season. Therefore, I recommend placing the air-pruning boxes under the dappled shade of large trees if possible. Plus, this is how they often grow in the wild. This can certainly vary by species, though—some species will do well in full sun and even prefer it.

If natural shade is not an option, we can make our own with shade cloth. This can be attached on top of the protective cage using zip ties or we can build a simple structure to hold the shade cloth. Here is an easy way to build a shade structure:

We need the following supplies. How much of each will depend on the size of the shade structure we choose to build.

• Bungee cords
• Shade cloth
• 5-gallon buckets
• Instant concrete or gravel
• 2” × 4” treated lumber in 8-ft sections
• Hooks/loops that can be attached to the lumber to hold the shade cloth

Here are the steps:

1. Attach the hook or loop to one end of the 2” × 4” treated lumber.
2. Position this 8-ft section of 2” × 4” treated lumber upright in the center of a 5-gallon bucket. Make sure the hook/loop is on the side opposite the bucket.
3. Pour concrete or pack in gravel around the lumber to hold it firmly in place within the bucket.
4. You have now created a support beam. Repeat this process for as many support beams as necessary.
5. Position the support beams around and between the air-pruning boxes and drape the cloth across the 2” × 4” ends. Use bungees to secure the shade cloth to the hooks/loops.

After we build this structure and set it up, see how it reacts to the wind. Depending on the site conditions, it may need additional weight or support. For example, we may need to anchor each support beam to the ground with lines attached to tent stakes. We can also add weight to the support beams in the form of sandbags or cinder blocks. If digging is an option, we even partially bury each bucket for an extra-firm hold.

On a related note, we subjected some of our saplings to extreme growing conditions to test their ability to withstand heat, sun, and drought. We set them up on a south-facing patio with a white wall in the background, which is as hot a setting as we can create here in Raleigh. We provided them with no supplemental watering outside of normal rainfall, and we did not provide them with any shade. The results were impressive. This goes to show that even without any care, many saplings still grow. Here is a video featuring this experiment:

Step 4: Collect Native Seeds

Seed formation follows flowering. Seeds mature through most of the growing season, though many are not ready until early in the dormant season. They usually start out with a green color, which means they are not ripe and thus not ready for collection. When they are ripe, they often change to a red, orange, yellow, or brown color. There are exceptions to this, of course. Typically, we know seeds are ripe when they begin falling to the ground.

Our first step is to determine when various species are ready for collection. The precise timing for when seeds become available only matters if there are specific species we want to collect. In this case, we must research when each of our target species produces ripe seeds. Research can include reading books, consulting resources, and searching for answers online. It can also include visiting a tree or shrub multiple times to make observations. If we are collecting seeds at random, we can skip the research and collect whatever we happen to find.

Here is a calendar we use at Project Pando to help guide collection times. This can vary based on rain and weather.

A calendar of when seeds become available

Once we know when the seeds are available, the next task is to find trees bearing those seeds. Again, this assumes there are specific species we hope to collect. Here are some general tips for finding these trees and shrubs:

• Explore nearby local, state, and national parks. Land conservancies are another great option. Since part of the objective is to increase genetic diversity, looking for species that are growing in the wild is optimal.
• Older trees are generally better than younger ones. It is very exciting when we can collect from old species that predate the clear-cutting that took place across much of the United States during the 1700s and 1800s. Many states and cities will call these “Champion Trees” or “Heritage Trees” or “Historic Trees.” There are often databases available that list where these trees are located. These are often great places to collect seeds (with permission, of course).
• The sub/urban landscape can also be a good place to find species, especially at college campuses, churchyards, old cemeteries, public green spaces, and along roads with uncleared forest.
• Check with local arboretums, botanical gardens, native nurseries, and science museums. These organizations may allow us to collect seeds from their specimens—and some may even have labels to make ID easy!
• We can use apps to help with seed collection. For example, we can use the search function on iNaturalist to find specific species.
• Some organizations—especially museums, municipalities, and universities—may already have tree maps for their own in-house purposes. There are several such organizations here in Raleigh that allow us to use their maps to collect seeds from specific trees.
• Look for like-minded groups on the internet, social media, Meetup, Reddit, etc., that are into trees and plants in general. They can often help.

As we find specific species, we should document where we found them if we want to collect from them again in the future. We can do this in many ways. At Project Pando we create digital maps for our volunteers using Google Earth and ArcGIS that show the location for various species of native trees and shrubs. This makes it very easy for folks to help collect seeds from specific plants.

When the time is right and we know where the trees and shrubs are located, it’s time to collect the seeds—woo hoo! Here are some helpful tips and considerations:

• If we are collecting seeds directly from the plant (versus those that have fallen to the ground), an easy way to determine if the seed is ripe is to feel how easily it releases from the plant. If it detaches easily with little effort, it is likely ripe. If we must pull and tug with any sort of force, the seed is not likely to be ripe.
• Collecting a seed slightly before it is fully ripe is not necessarily a bad thing. Especially for seeds that birds love, this may be the only way we can collect that species. It may decrease how many grow into saplings, but we are still likely to have some good results from these slightly unripe seeds.
• For acorns, pecans, walnuts, and other nuts, we can buy devices that sweep them up without having to bend over. If we are collecting a lot of these types of seeds, these devices will save future back pain and speed up the process.
• If we are collecting seeds that require us to be on our hands and knees, I recommend getting knee protection. There are all sorts of knee pads and cushioned devices made for gardeners and carpenters that we can find online.
• Windborne seeds are often easy to collect from hard surfaces. Examples include along street curbs, sidewalks, and on decks where the wind blows them in corners.
• Many trees and shrubs go through a process called masting, where they produce an abundance of seeds in some years, and very few in other years.
• We can lay tarps, nets, baskets, cages, and so forth to help catch seeds. This is especially useful in a forest setting, where it can be very hard to distinguish seeds from the leaves.
• If the tree is located on private property, we must ask permission from the landowner before we collect seeds.
• When we are collecting seeds, be careful to minimize damage to nearby plants, fungi, and other life. We should aim to collect seeds responsibly with little to no impact!
• Remember to leave some seeds in place—many birds, raccoons, and other creatures rely on them for survival.

After collecting seeds, we may need to temporarily store them. For this, we can place them in a sealed bag and store them in a refrigerator. For bigger seeds like acorns or black walnuts, we can store them in buckets or other large containers in a cool, dark place. Basements or crawl spaces work well. The key to these storage options is the word “temporarily” since each passing day results in more seeds dying.

Step 5: Plant Seeds

At this point, we should plant the seeds. The easiest method, which generally follows the natural life cycle of many seeds, is to simply plant them as soon as possible after collection. Before we begin planting, there are some simple things we can do to filter out dead seeds and increase how many trees we grow. Here they are:

• Inspect the seeds. Do they look plump and have a solid color? Or are they black and shriveled? The former are likely good candidates to be planted and the latter are not.
• Pick a few samples from the seeds and break them open or cut them in half. Is the inside light green or white? Or is it black, shriveled, empty, or hollow? The former are likely good candidates to be planted and the latter are not.
• Perform something called the float test, which is when we put our seeds in a container of water. Do they sink or float? The former are likely good candidates to be planted and the latter are not. Note that the float test does not always work for some species. If in doubt, open them up for closer inspection.

When planting, we place the seeds directly onto the top of the leaf mold in our air-pruning boxes. There is a lot of flexibility on how we space seeds, but in general it is best to sow lots of seeds. Spread them out so they create a roughly even layer. Put a thin layer of leaf mold over them—we want this layer of leaf mold to be about as deep as the seeds are large. Once this is done, we should place cages on top of the air-pruning boxes if we are worried about predation.

When we have plenty of seeds, we should only grow one species per air-pruning box. However, if we have limited quantities of seeds, we can sow two or more species per box by leaving a little bit of unplanted space between the different types of seeds. In all cases, we should attach weatherproof labels to each box that contain the name and planting date for the species within that box (or use another record-keeping method of our choosing).

Finally, our seeds can become exposed over time, especially after the first several rain events. If this happens, cover them again with more leaf mold.

Step 6: Nurture the Saplings—Then Give Them Away!

The next step is to decide how much we are able or willing to care for the growing saplings. They don’t need much, but some attention will deliver higher yields. The main objective is to provide some water whenever conditions become too dry. To determine if the saplings need water, grab a pinch of leaf mold from below the surface and evaluate the moisture. Is there any discernible moisture? Or is it dry and flaky? If it is dry, water the saplings thoroughly, until we see water dripping from the bottom of the box. If in doubt, err on the side of too much water since all the excess will drain out of the bottom. We should only water on an as-needed basis.

Other care options include removing unwanted trees when they appear. Seeds from nearby trees often take root in the boxes. We can also douse the saplings in compost tea one or multiple times during the growing season if we have some available. This is not necessary but will boost their health.

We leave the saplings in air-pruning boxes for at least one growing season. If they are small after one year, we can leave them in for another growing season. The term “small” is subjective but we usually draw the line at less than three inches. Generally, we do not leave saplings in a box longer than two growing seasons, though there are some slow-growing species that may need a third growing season.

Now comes the fun part—unboxing the saplings! Since the dormant season is the best time to plant, we typically unbox them for projects and giveaways during this season. It is best to do this as close to these events as possible to minimize the amount of time we need to store the saplings outside of the air-pruning box. Our goal should be to move the saplings from the air-pruning box to their permanent destination within the ground as quickly as possible.

Here is a video showing how to remove the saplings:

Begin by removing the riser from off the top of the box. This exposes the upper portion of the sapling roots. We can slowly wiggle our hands along the inside edge of the box until we can gently lift what will likely be a chunk of intertwined saplings. Once we have a chunk of intertwined saplings out of the box, carefully and gently tease the saplings apart from one another. The key is to move slowly, but firmly. They will untangle from one another. The goal is to minimize tearing and breaking the roots. We should only remove the trees that we need and leave the rest in the air-pruning box. If saplings remain in the air-pruning box, we should cover their exposed roots with extra leaf mold.

With all these saplings we have lots of options for what we can do with them next. We can plant them, offer them to friends, family, volunteers, and organizations that need them, and we can host tree giveaway events. Whatever we choose, the key is to ensure the saplings are planted as soon as possible. We should avoid placing them in pots for more than several weeks. Otherwise, the roots will become malformed within the pot.

If the saplings are headed to a giveaway or tree-planting event we may need to store them temporarily. We can gather them in bundles and cover their roots with soil, leaf mold, compost, or the leftover substrate from the boxes. This is called heeling the plants. Heel them in bundles in the ground, bags, or pots to help retain vital moisture. The goal is to keep the roots damp and cool—but not too cold. We must avoid letting the roots freeze. For the sake of logistical ease, we will often store set amounts of a given species (e.g., 50 saplings) in larger pots filled with substrate from the boxes and additional leaf mold. We always label the pots with a Listo grease pencil (they write on most anything). If the saplings are being planted, we can extract them from the bucket and plant them directly in the ground. If they are being given away, we can place a sapling (or 20) in a used plastic grocery bag and then secure the bag in place by fastening a used grocery twist tie around the base of the sapling, above the roots. This method helps maintain moisture in the roots, makes transport easy with little mess, and makes use of an existing waste stream.

One final pro tip: the substrate that remains after extracting the saplings is pure gold! We have found through tests and observations made through a microscope that this substrate has an incredibly rich soil ecosystem. It is an ideal compost that can also be turned into a compost tea solution for future saplings.

What Next?

It is important to remember that the core of this work is meant to be fun: this is a group of people collecting native seeds, raising trees, enjoying each other’s company, and in the process, helping heal Earth. Fun can be simple: collect some seeds with friends and put them in old pots full of leaves. Plant whatever grows or share the saplings with friends and family. Or throw some native seeds on the ground to see what springs to life.

Fun can also be more involved and complex: work to maximize yields by focusing on seed processing and tinkering with every element of the growth process. Keep meticulous records and observations then use those to further improve future yields. Invest in equipment and increase the number of trees growing. Generate enough saplings for many pocket forests and thickets throughout the community. Apply for grants and funding. Use this same model to collect, grow, and distribute seeds for native meadows. Develop partnerships with like-minded organizations and municipalities. Host volunteer events and tree ID walks. Provide educational events regarding all the topics in this book. Host tree-giveaways and tree-planting events for the surrounding community. Find ways to engage groups and stakeholders that may not otherwise be interested in trees. Use this model to increase food resilience. The possibilities are endless!

Both journeys—and all the many other possibilities—are steps in the right direction. Whether they result in one more native tree being planted or changing the paradigms of an entire community, they help heal Earth. That is the beauty of Project Pando; amid all the fun, we find ourselves connecting more deeply with trees, soil, and other life. As we learn and develop new relationships, our paradigms slowly change. It has been truly inspirational to watch as people from all walks of life find joy and “ah-ha!” moments through their work with Project Pando. Folks go from knowing absolutely nothing about trees to being catalysts of change in their neighborhoods, schools, and workplaces.

My hope is that this is the beginning of a collective effort that connects many communities in different areas. Should you choose to use this model, I hope that you consider helping expand this work by adding contributions relevant to your area. With enough participation and input, we can create resources applicable to many regions and growing zones.